The Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall 2017 campaign, featuring model Anja Rubik, remains one of the most discussed and debated advertising campaigns in recent fashion history. Its audacious imagery, showcasing Rubik in fishnet stockings, pieces from the Fall 2017 collection, and a striking pair of wheeled heels, sparked a firestorm of controversy, leading to accusations of sexism, exploitation, and the degradation of women. This article delves into the intricacies of the campaign, exploring the reasons behind its contentious nature, the resulting backlash, and its lasting impact on the fashion world.
4 Things to Know About Saint Laurent Fall 2017:
Before dissecting the campaign's controversy, it's crucial to understand the context of the Saint Laurent Fall 2017 collection itself. The collection, designed by Anthony Vaccarello, marked a distinct shift in the house's aesthetic. It was:
1. A Return to Rock and Roll: Vaccarello's vision for Fall 2017 leaned heavily into a rebellious, rock-and-roll aesthetic. This was evident in the use of leather, fringe, and bold silhouettes, a departure from some of the more classic elements previously associated with the brand. The collection conveyed a sense of raw energy and unapologetic sexuality.
2. A Focus on Strong Silhouettes: The collection featured sharp tailoring, structured jackets, and fitted dresses, emphasizing a powerful and confident female form. This contrasted with some of the more flowing and romantic styles seen in previous collections, creating a more assertive and assertive image for the modern woman.
3. An Emphasis on Accessories: The accessories played a crucial role in the overall aesthetic. The aforementioned wheeled heels, along with other statement pieces, added a theatrical and provocative element to the collection, further enhancing its rebellious spirit. These accessories became central to the controversy surrounding the campaign.
4. A Deliberate Departure from Tradition: Vaccarello’s appointment as creative director signified a conscious effort to redefine the YSL brand for a new generation. The Fall 2017 collection, with its edgy and provocative elements, was a clear statement of this intent. It wasn’t just about clothes; it was about projecting a specific attitude and image.
Yves Saint Laurent 'Porno Chic' Ads Are Enraging Shocked:
The campaign, shot by renowned fashion photographers Inez and Vinoodh, quickly attracted significant media attention, not for its artistic merit alone, but for its explicit and arguably exploitative portrayal of women. The images were described by critics as "porno chic," a term that highlighted the juxtaposition of high fashion with sexually suggestive imagery. The use of fishnet stockings, the suggestive poses, and the unconventional footwear created a visual language that many interpreted as bordering on the pornographic. This interpretation fueled the outrage and sparked a heated debate about the ethical boundaries of fashion advertising.
The response wasn't simply criticism; it was visceral anger. Many felt the campaign objectified women, reducing them to sexual objects for the gratification of the male gaze. The seemingly deliberate provocation of the imagery didn't sit well with a significant portion of the public, who saw it as a step too far. The campaign was accused of promoting a harmful and unrealistic portrayal of female sexuality, reinforcing damaging stereotypes.
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